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JSL 27/02/2011: Article on the open door of Galpon

A small article on the open door to Galpon (Tournus 71) of 20 February.
I was present to present my workshops soaps and cosmetics, all know that a workshop will take place shortly in Tournus (30 April and 1 May to be exact).
Worth reading the article was the impression I want a soap that I had then urged the journalists to the fact that I did not sell my products but teaching people to make them themselves ...

close to home ...

Meeting with local producers

zoom

Meet those who work close to home. Photo TB (CLP)

Every last Sunday of each month from 14 to 20 hours, the Galpon propose a meeting with producers and artisans premises. This meeting, entitled "Close to home ..." will to discover artifacts and otherwise enjoy organic products and fair. The event, supported by the European Social Fund and the Regional Council of Burgundy, had its premiere on February 20. Benedict attended Delorme and wine grown and produced naturally as possible to Mellecey, jewelry Workshop Val Lacrost, Gaëlle Buchardon ceramics, organic herbal teas and honey Christine Ozenay Chardonnay, and soaps produced by the workshop Grimoires. Everything went in a friendly atmosphere where everyone has shared its know-how and methods.

Thomas Borjon (CLP)

Next go to 17 rue des Granges, Sunday, March 20.

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What have you done??

What passed??

What is this head?

Makeup too light? Too dry? Red too red? Too dull?

And the sauerkraut ... I want to say "why??

I do not want to criticize (well) ... but it looks like you have 65 years all of a sudden ...

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Oscar for Best Makeup?

I have not seen Black Swan and do not know if she deserved her Oscar for best actress, but next up Nathalie Portman assured last night. Eyes, mouth, cheekbones: perfect makeup! The beauty of this look is mainly in that it has not done too much. The makeup is light. A perfect blend of brown and beige. The earrings and hair do the rest.

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Sarah Chapman ... when beauticians star launch their brand ...

United States, trademarks are generally due care of dermatologists and plastic surgeons (Dr.Murad, dr.brandt skincare, NVPerrcione). In the UK, it seems that they are the beauticians who are riding the trend. Thus, after Eve Lom , génialissime brand created by an eponymous beauty, it is the turn of Sarah Chapman , beautician in London, put his talents and experience in a Tube . Never heard of her, but his brand is falling ...

Indeed, SKINESIS is a beautiful range of skincare products sold in anti-aging excluded from Space NK . The name does not dream, but the pack is elegant and "serious".

First, I had a real heart for helping night serum "overnight facial" , a treatment that mimics her beautician's care, but at night , sleeping! I like the idea of products that work my skin when I am resting. Is not it nice to wake up with the freshness of the Sleeping Beauty. Initially, the texture is surprising because it is in fact a mixture of oils. So very fat and very liquid. But the scent of jasmine is at once captivating and makes you want to spread you face. The next morning, my skin is less red, more resilient and in better shape. I apply two times a week after exfoliation.

So, I recraqué to the eye. For bags, dark circles, fatigue, hydration Result ... ? As for the serum at night: I'm still a fan!

Prices: AC is not given, especially the need to take the Eurostar to buy it ... and yes! We only found at Space NK ...

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Lemon Tart Bubble Bar Shampoo

bubble bath is my last solid to crumble under running water for a nice foam.
I deleted because citric acid does not take advantage of the effervescent effect, the latter taking place to fill the bath and not while you're in!

It contains:

- 40g bicarbonate of soda (40%)
- 23.5 g cornstarch (23.5%)
- SLSA 20g (20%)
- Cocoa Butter 10g (10%)
- 5g HV Coco fractionated (5%)
- natural 1g Fragrance Lemon Pie (1%)
- 0.5 g yellow ocher (0.5%)

Put the butter in a bain-marie. Mix the powders (except color) them before adding the melted butter and oil. Mix well. Add fragrance. Divide dough into 2. Add coloring to a portion of the dough. Flatten one another before the 2 pasta roll up and cut the strand obtained in 2. Allow the bread (in the fridge it goes faster!).

Costing: less than 2.4 € for 2 loaves of 50g.

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solid Yogurt Lemon "oily roots, dry ends"

I love the solid shampoo but if I want them to be nutritious enough for my tips do not dry out, I have to shampoo every 3 days (damn greasy roots!). I want my space shampoos without my spikes are dry so far. So I tried a new type of formulation with less oil, but the yogurt powder to feed my peak yet.

This shampoo contains:

- SCS 33.25 g (66.5%)
- 5g Water (10%)
- HV Jojoba 4g (8%)
- 3.5 g cetearyl alcohol (7%)
- 3 , yogurt powder 5g (7%)
- 0.25 g citric acid (0.5%)
- 0.25 g (9 drops) ET Lemon (0.5%)
- 0.25 g (9 drops) Bergamot ET (0.5%)

The mixture HV Jojoba and Cetearyl alcohol can be prepared in advance (to obtain a jojoba butter).
Place all ingredients except ET, to melt in a bain-marie (put cetearyl alcohol at the bottom of your bowl so it melts more easily). Once you get a smooth paste, then add the ET cast.
I found a pH of 5 (by diluting in some water, then measure necessarily approximate).

Costing: 1 € shampoo 50g.

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Soap Advocate Forest

Second soap made with my inclusions, with a photograph that shows you the front and back ...

It contains:
- 150g Advocate HV (30%)
- Palm HV 130g (26%)
- Coco HV 85g (17%)
- Olive HV 75g (15%)
- 35g stearic acid (7%)
- Coco fractional HV 25g (5%)
- Soda for greasing 2% diluted in an average weight of demineralized water with 10g (2%) of sodium lactate. A

track:
- 35g HV Lawyer (thus greasing the total to 9%)
- 3.33 g (117 drops) ET Siberian Fir
- 3.33 g (117 drops) Tangerine yellow
ET - 1.33 g ( 47 drops) HE deodar
- 1.33 g (47 drops) ET Clove
- 0.67 g (23 drops)
ET Spearmint (2% of ET)

According Soap Calc :
- hardness (29-54): 47
- Cleansing (12-22): 16
- conditionning (44-69): 48
- bubbly (14-46): 16
- creamy (16 - 48): 31
- iodine (41-70): 54
INS (136-165): 157

Costing: 9.6 € (not including inclusions) for 9 know.
The pretty yellow / green color comes from the avocado oil ...

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Grimoires at Galpon Tournus this Sunday, February 20

Grimoires sera présent à la porte ouverte du Galpon (17 rue des Granges) à Tournus (71) ce dimanche 20 février 2011 de 14h à 18h .
L'occasion pour vous de me rencontrer, de m'interroger sur les prochains ateliers, sur ma démarche... ou juste de venir partager votre passion pour la cosmétique maison avec moi.

J'en profite pour vous rappeler qu'aura lieu à Tournus un stage savons les 30 avril et 1et mai prochain.

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Ready to throw "a film about the planned obsolescence

Si vous avez manqué cet excellent film sur la logique de notre société de consommation/croissance qui consiste à imagine today a consumer as "ready to throw" to push us to consume more and renewing our goods more quickly, he is free viewing until Tuesday arte:

http://videos .arte.tv/fr/videos/pret_a_jeter-3700234.html

"In Western countries, the plague cons of low-end products that must be replaced constantly. While in Ghana, one of exasperated those arriving by computer waste containers. This pattern of aberrant growth that grows produce and throw even more did not start yesterday. By the 1920s, a formidable concept was developed: the obsolescence programmed. "A product that does not wear is a tragedy for business," read one in 1928 in a journal. Gradually, it forced the engineers to create products that wear out more quickly to increase consumer demand. "

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Heart foaming effervescent powder

A little heart bubble bath so Valentine
...


It contains:


Phase A:
- 30g bicarbonate of soda (30%)
- SLSA 20g (20%)
- 15g citric acid (15%)
- 13g cornflour (13%)
- Red clay 0.5 g (0.5%)

Phase B :
- 15g Beurre de cacao blanc (15%)
- 5g Ester de sucre (5%)
- 1,5g (53 gouttes) Arôme naturel Amandes de cerises (1,5%)

Mélanger ensemble (avec un masque) les poudres de la phase A. Au besoin (si l'acide citrique n'est pas en poudre fine) utiliser un mortier.
Faire fondre le beurre de cacao blanc au bain-marie. Laisser refroidir quelques minutes avant de lui ajouter les autres ingrédients de la phase B.
Mélanger ensemble les phases A et B puis tasser la pâte obtenue dans un moule.
Laisser durcir à l'air.
Plonger votre cœur dans votre bain et regarder la jolie mousse qui se forme... (pour un maximum de mousse je conseille de turn on the faucet at the outset of the bath)

Costing about 2.5 € 100g big heart.

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Mask

After offering at Christmas to my little sister u No special mask powder young skin, I wanted to get a version specifically for my skin.
version that meets my sensitive skin and mixed while giving a boost purifying, refreshing and revitalizing ...

This mask contains:

- 40g green montmorillonite clay (40%)
- 15g White Clay (15%)
- Rhassoul 10g (10%)
- Lithothame 10g (10%)
- yogurt powder 10g (10%)
- 10g Spirulina (10%)
- 5g Powder Tepezcohite (5%)

To use, simply take 2 tablespoons in Coffee and dilute with a little water.
Leave for 10 minutes before rinsing.

Costing: less than 2.25 € 100g (a 30aine masks).

Once moistened, this mask has a beautiful emerald green ...

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revitalizing regenerating face cream" late winter "

A cream for my combination skin that becomes more erratic with the end of winter cold and the wind tends to make it more responsive ...



contains:

Oil phase (25%):
- 5g Olivem 1000 (5%)
- 5g HV Jojoba (5%)
- HV Sesame 5g (5%)
- 5g macerate and can mature (5%)
- 5g HV Borage (5%)

Aqueous phase:
- Verbena scent 46g HA (46%)
- 17g HA Witch Hazel (17%)

Third phase:
- 5g Preview hydroglycerine ylang-ylang (5%)
- Aloe Vera Gel 5g (5%)
- 0.5 g Allantoin (0.5%)
- 0.5 g green tea (0.5% )
- 0.5 g (18 drops) Cosgard (0.5%)
- 0.2 g (7 drops) lemon Litsée ET (0.2%)
- 0.2 g (7 drops) Palmarosa ET (0.2%)
- 0.1 g (4 drops ) Vit.E (0.1%)

Place in water bath (70 ° C) oil and water phases (for a better dilution of the powders, we can put you allantoin green tea in the aqueous phase) before the whole emulsified. Add the third phase after cooling.

Costing: less than € 3.15 per 100g.

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Toothpaste paste mint / chlorophyll

history of changing a few of my tooth powder, tooth paste one here at the mint and chlorophyll.

It contains:

Phase A:
- Glycerine 20g (20%)
- 1.2 g guar gum (1.2%)
- Peppermint 10g HA (10%)

Phase B:
- 0.6 g chlorophyll (0.6%)
- Xylitol 5g (5%)
- SMCTaurate 2.2 g (2.2%)
- 0.5 g Powder iris roots (0.5%)
- 0.3 g salt (0.3%)
- 55g Calcium Carbonate (55%)
- lithotame 5g (5%)


Phase C - 0.2 g (7 drops) ET Spearmint (0.2 %)

Making a gel (phase A) and mix the powders together (Phase B) before mixing Phase A to Phase B. Then add the EO.
Let dough thus obtained end to thicken before putting it in a special flask toothpaste (to avoid introducing water in his bag with a toothbrush).

are strongly advised to wear a mask to make this recipe.
For a child, remove the ET (you can also use the lemon water instead of mint hydrosol but in this case remove the chlorophyll ...).

This recipe is glycerin, which acts as a preservative.

Costing for 100g (one 50mL bottle): Less than 1, 25 €.

Incidentally if anyone knows where to buy flasks / tubes toothpaste away from home Aroma-zone I'm interested in (finding them inconclusive bottle) ...

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Eyeliner Black Soap

It's been a while since I want to make an eyeliner house but I was looking how to solve the problem of its conservation. In fact I did not want to use PPE (keep my eyeliner just one month in the fridge and bof bof) and cosgard (my usual Conservative) asked not to exceed 0.2% on the contour of the eye ( or 0.5 drop for a small bottle is impossible to measure ...).
I solved my problem using aloe vera gel as a base instead of a mixture between water and an eraser. In fact, the aloe vera gel (at least one of Aroma-zone) already contains a preservative and is licensed around the eyes ...
Here is my recipe (which gives a nice black line that dries quickly):

- 5.8 g Aloe Vera Gel (83.5%)
- 0.1 g HV Ricin (1.5%)
- 1.1 g Black Oxide (15%)

I just mixed the ingredients well together before taking my gel with a pipette and place it in the bottle ...

Costing: 67cts the 7g (a size vial of standard).

You can also use the eyeliner to make temporary tattoos on your body ...

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graphic jasmine milk

is the first with soap under my inclusions.

It contains:
- Coco HV 150g (30%)
- 125g Olive HV (25%)
- Palm HV 100g (20%)
- 50g Macadamia HV (10%)
- HV 50g Sunflower ( 10%)
- 25g stearic acid (5%)
- soda for greasing 2% diluted in a maximum volume of whole milk (frozen)

At the track:
- Apricot 35g HV (thus greasing total 9%)
- Wax jasmine grandiflorum 17.5 g (3.5% by weight oil)
- 1.5 g Benzoin Absolute

The soap was cut 5h after its mold!

According Soap Calc :
- hardness (29-54): 45
- Cleansing (12-22): 20
- conditionning (44-69): 48
- bubbly (14 - 46): 20
- creamy (16-48): 25
- iodine (41-70): 56
INS (136-165): 161
(these values do not take account of additions made to trace or milk )

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Inclusions Dates for future courses

I prepared for future inclusions soaps. Initially for 2, but with my falls I have at least the idea of a third ...



These "inclusions" contain:

- Coco HV 150g (30%)
- 150g Olive HV (30%)
- 100g Macadamia HV (20%)
- Palm HV 100g (20%)
- soda for greasing a 10% diluted in a maximum weight of demineralized water.

At the track, separating the bath 5 parts with respective additions like:
1) 1g Ultramarine Blue
2) 0.5 g of Green Earth Brentonico + 0.5 g Lemon Yellow
3) 1.5 g Topsoil Indies
4) 1 g + 0.5 g Red Clay Red
SF 5) 0.5 g + 0.5 g pozzuoli Red Lemon Yellow

According Soap Calc :
- hardness (29-54): 42
- Cleansing (12-22): 20
- conditionning (44-69): 50
- bubbly (14-46): 20
- creamy (16-48): 21
- iodine (41-70): 54
INS (136-165): 162

Recipes know where these inclusions appear to follow ...

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know know

A first course know will be held on the weekend of April 30 and May 1 :
- the Saturday from 14h to 18h
- Sunday from 10:30 to 12h and 14h to 16h30
This course will take place in Tournus, workshop lilacs (71) .

Program: First day

:
- interest to know his home
- principle of saponification
- precautions
- the different manufacturing methods
- choice of ingredients and method of incorporation
- design revenue (and calculation methods)
- put into practice by conducting a first bar of soap (traditional cold process )

Second day:
- Cutting the soap made the day before
- design a custom recipe (working with the aesthetics of the soap: color, marbling ... smell ...) and achieve it. Each participant will leave

15aine with soap made from oils and natural dyes, mostly organic.

Price per person: 95 €

Please bring a smock (or old shirt) to protect themselves, as well as stand mixers, a calculator and measuring cup (this material you will need to redo soaps thereafter). The rest of the equipment and ingredients are provided, you can nevertheless provide a pair of rubber gloves if you have ...
If you want to run your soaps in individual molds you can go with your silicone molds ...

Booking via the contact form on the blog or at 03 85 94 76 79 ... The reservation will be effective upon the payment of 30 € deposit.

Another training should take place at the Garden Lux mature Arts, just minutes from Chalon-sur-Saone during August ...

And I take this opportunity to remind you that registration for courses cosmetics have also begun ...

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Bath Salts Relaxing Lavender relaxants to 2

Backache? Sore muscles? Stressed?

And if we had a small bath with relaxing lavender ... 2

These bath salts contain:


Phase A:
- 168g Salt of the island of Ré (84%)
- 20g bicarbonate of soda (10%)
- 1g Clay violet (0.5% )

Phase B:
- 4g HV fractional Coco (2%)
- Ester 3g sugar (1.5%)
- 2g (70 drops) Lavender true ET (1%)
- 2g (70 drops ) HE Lavandin Super (1%)

Prepare two separate phases before mixing them together.

Costing : About 2 € for 200g.

can replace salt with another salt (Dead Sea, Epsom ...).

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soap "Winter Sky"

A new simple soap, unscented to enjoy the aroma of soap and a house in the Japanese marbling (one pot, poured into several round-trips).

It contains:
- 150g Olive HV (30%)
- Coco HV 150g (30%)
- 100g Sesame HV (20%)
- 100g Palm HV (20%)
- soda for greasing a 9% in a maximum volume of demineralized water

At the track:
- 1g powder activated carbon
- 1g Oxides
blue - ultramarine violet 1g

This soap was cut after 45h.
Costing: 3.3 € 7 soaps.

According Soap Calc :
- hardness (29-54): 42
- Cleansing (12-22): 20
- conditionning (44-69): 54
- bubbly (14 - 46): 20
- creamy (16-48): 22
- iodine (41-70): 61
INS (136-165): 154

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Galette des Rois (no eggs and no butter)

For good galette without milk or eggs, you will need:

- 2 flaky (most are no butter) previously piquées avec une fourchette
- 200g Poudre d'amandes
- 150g Sucre
- 100g Margarine
- 10 cL Crème d'amande ("amande cuisine" se trouve en magasin bio) ou à défaut un peu de lait d'amande avec de la fécule de tapioca...

Faire une pommade avec le beurre et le sucre. Ajouter la poudre d'amandes puis la crème d'amandes. Étaler cette préparation sur une des pâtes en partant du centre et jusqu'à 2cm des bords. Étaler sur le bord un peu de crème d'amande mélangée avec du sucre. Disposer la deuxième pâte sur le dessus, faire adhérer les bords en soudant avec la pointe d'un couteau. Enfourner 40min à 180°C.
Régalez-vous !

Personally I found it very good but as I like to trim a little more airy I think add a little tapioca starch in the next (to find the texture of cakes bakers who mix and almond cream custard).

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Body Cream for dry, sensitive skin (lavender, black cumin and avocado)

Here is a cream specially formulated for dry, sensitive skin which has an allergic rash.



contains:

Oil phase (35%):
- 15% HV
Macadamia - 8% HV Lawyer
- 5% HV Nigella
- 5% Wax No. 2
- 2% stearic acid

Aqueous phase:
- 57.5% HA Lavender

Third phase:
- 5% Glycerol
- 1% ET
true Lavender - 0.5% ET Lavandin super
- 0.5% Cosgard
- 0.3% Absolute benzoin from Siam
- 0.1% CO2
German Chamomile - 0.1% Vit.E

Put the 2 first phase in a water bath (70 ° C) before the whole emulsified. Add the third phase after cooling.

Costing: less than 2.1 € per 100g of cream.

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Dates of next courses

The operation is always the same: you bring your containers ( where to find containers? ) and leave with your products based on natural ingredients, and suited to your skin (everyone is not the same recipe since I you learn to write your own recipes to suit your needs) ... For containers
really specific, I can provide (containing deodorant and lip balm in particular).
The workshops all take place on Chalon afternoon and welcome more than 5 people . Three courses

4h (14h-18h) with the basic rules, discovery of ingredients, methods of implementation and implementation with the realization of two recipes:
- Saturday, April 2, 2011: "simple revenue" (a facial cleanser + deodorant)
- Saturday, April 16 2011: "balsams" (+ lip balm body balm)
- Saturday, May 7, 2011: "cream" (a cream body cream + face)
Price: 50 € (95 € for 2 courses, 135 € for 3)

Two courses of 5 days (14h-17h) "learning how to make cosmetics homemade :
- Monday July 25 to 29, 2011 (the week before, from Thursday to Sunday there is a great street theater festival in Chalon with over 250 shows "free" for the fans who would come a little earlier ...)
- Monday 8 to 12 August 2011
Monday: "The Basics" (rules, discovered ingredients and finished products ...) and "simple recipes." Realization of a mask minute.
Tuesday: "balsams" with achieving a lip balm and a body balm (whipped or not). The container for lip balm is provided.
Wednesday: "massage products" with a realization massage oil and a massage candle
Thursday: "cream" with for a face cream and a body cream
Friday: "free" (each prepared product of his desire : deodorant, shampoo ...).
Price: 175 €

Otherwise, for internships know is HERE.

To register contact me by email (contact form on the right of the blog) or by phone 03 85 94 76 79. Registration is after final payment of the deposit.
For those coming from afar, there are cottages cheap near Chalon-sur-Saone.

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Shampoo Liquid CITRUS

I continue to test the TA Plantacare sold by Soap Opera. Following
my first test, I deleted the Plantacare 1200up I did not like the smell of him and shot back the amount of xanthan gum (a bit too much).
So I kept only 2 TA: the punch Plantacare coconut and 2000. The Plantacare coconut punch seems a vital therefore that we I would like to integrate as oil in our shampoo without risk of phase separation or loss of foam ... It also has conditioning properties. The Plantacare 2000, marketed under the smoothness of coconut in my Soap Opera, is also at Aroma-Zone (more expensive though) foam under the name of sugar. TA is a mild but provides a rich lather.

This shampoo contains lemon scent:

Phase A:
- 50g-Decyl glucoside (Plantacare 2000) 25%
- 30g Coco-glucoside (coconut Plantacare punch) or 15%

Phase B:
- Glycerine 10g (5%)
- 2g xanthan gum (1%)
- 81g Water (40.5%)
- 3.8 g citric acid (1.9%)

Phase C:
- 20g jojoba (10%)
- 1g (35 drops) Grapefruit ET (0.5%)
- 1g (35 drops ) HE Litsée Lemon (0.5%)
- 1.2 g (42 drops) Cosgard (0.6%)

I separately prepared phases A and B (cold, simply by mixing the ingredients together in the order listed) before mixing them together and add phase C.
I got a pH between 4.5 and 5.
The shampoo is quite viscous, the next move I will test a dosage of xanthan gum around 0.7% of history make it a little more fluid. Otherwise the smell is tip-top ...

Because the choice of HE, this shampoo is intended rather to hair that tend to re-grease and / or fall.

Costing: less than 2.25 € for 200g (and even less if you buy the TA in one liter).

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whipped shea "apricot almond

I love the whipped shea butter, they eat well my skin in winter. But I like the ease with aloe vera and glycerin to one side leaner and better hydration.
I also love the combination of almonds oil apricot and plum flavors ... So my last whipped.

contains:


Phase A:
- 25g Shea Butter (50%)
- HV 10g almonds plum (20%)
- 4.4 g HV Coco fractional (8.8%)

Phase B:
- 7.5 g Gel Aloe vera (15%)
- 2.5 g Glycerol (5%)
- 0.5 g (18 drops) natural apricot flavor (1%)
- 0.1 g (4 drops) Vit.E (0.2%)

Triturate phase A and mount in Chantilly. Add the ingredients of phase B, while continuing to beat.

Costing: a little over 2.2 € 50g (or 100mL).

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micellar water purifying

My final cleansing water!

contains:

- 23g HA ladanifère Cistus (46%)
- HA Lavender 22.5 g (45%)
- 2.5 g Glycerol (5%)
- 1.5 g foam babassu (3%)
- 0.25 g (9 drops) Propolis (0.5%)
- 0.25 g (9 drops) Cosgard (0.5%)

Costing: 60cts 50g